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The FurTech pockets offer various advantages for cameras:
However, condensation can occur on the surface of a cold camera, phone or GPS due to the breathability of the FurTech lining. And we don't guarantee our pockets are 100% waterproof, so in heavy rain you may want to consider using a plastic bag.
I use an Olympus Mju 790SW (which is now superseded by the Olympus Tough). It's waterproof and shock proof and I keep it in my chest pocket which means I can use it with very little hassle to take quick snaps, working on the basis that the more I take, the more chance of getting a good shot.
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FurTech garments are designed to be unisex and many of the photos on this site show men and women wearing the same styles. The Small, Medium, Large, XLarge size range equates to 8, 10, 12 and 14 in standard UK women's sizes.
For measurements of the garments, please click here.
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Most duvet jackets will cope with dry snow but sometimes lots of insulation is needed in cold wet conditions. I recommend using an emergency shelter if you are stopped. I also like synthetic insulated jackets which provide a decent amount of weather protection and warmth when they get damp. And if you need even more insulation consider using the completely waterproof and amazingly warm Blizzard kit.
These items help solve the problem of adding insulation in the rain without getting completely soaked and they mean your waterproof doesn't have to be big and baggy!
(The photo shows me enjoying cold wind and rain, snug in a synthetic overshell jacket, FurTech jacket, trousers and simple baselayer. The FurTech jacket had dried significantly by the time I returned to the car.)
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Apart from the obvious problems like falling in a stream or water coming in the sleeves when you reach up, if you sit on wet ground water will be forced through the fabrics.
The other problem is sweat and insensible evaporation from the body. The first is obvious, but the latter will occur even in cold conditions. When the weather is cold and wet, with 100% relative humidity, it is very difficult to stay completely dry. The key is to stay warm and I'd recommend adding an overshell (belay) jacket over the top. The shellTA is also useful, especially for stops, when you aren't generating much heat.
However, FurTech will keep you dry in many circumstances when the best conventional waterproofs leave you wet and, even after complete immersion, dries relatively quickly.
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In heavy rain or persistent drizzle water coming from the outside mixes with vapour coming from the inside, which condenses in the cold outer fabric. The fabric has a sentiment change from hydrophobic to hydrophilic. This is inevitable - it's just the laws of physics - and it helps the lining stay dry. This is because water likes to stick to water so any droplets in the warm and hydrophobic furry lining are picked up by the outer fabric and moved away from your body.
When the outer saturates on a conventionalwaterproof the membrane prevents condensation from the inside from being moved outwards. This is one reason why FurTech works... and is probably why animals don't wear their skins on the outside!
(The photo above was taken after an hour of walking in the rain. The weather only got worse, yet I remained dry inside.)
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Imagine spending a stormy night out in the hills with a broken ankle. Unless you are carrying a tent, sleeping bag and spare clothing it's likely to be a chilly experience.
Air temperature isn't the biggest problem! I'd rather be in a blizzard and several degrees below freezing than +5'C and raining with 100% humidity. That's because when the air is saturated it is very difficult to keep condensation and rain out of your insulation and, as this post shows, just a small amount of water will dramatically reduce your ability to stay warm. For this reason, and the fact that mountain weather can be severe at any time of year, I'd suggest carrying the same spare insulation, summer or winter, whenever storms are likely (during the colder months you will already be wearing more insulation).
The Blizzard products offer emergency insulation that is far less effected by saturation and this forms the core of my spare kit. I also use a 2 person shelter, sit mat, and a synthetic insulated jacket (with hood) that gets used for lunch stops. This provides between 8 and 11Togs of damp resistant insulation in addition to the garments I use while on the move... be sure to pack some spare food to fuel the shivering!
Click here for a comparison of some insulated jackets.
Why it feels colder when it rains.
In Britain rain occurs in cool summer weather and warm winter weather. This link explains.
Please browse the Insulation section on the left, for more information.
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Each FurTech jacket has a different pocket arrangement:
FurTech Trousers have two hip level pockets that can be used for hand-warming or storing stuff.
Talon Jackets have two large hand pockets positioned on the chest above a sit harness or hip belt. Each pocket can hold a laminated OS map.
The Claw1 has four pockets: two large Napoleon pockets, each able to accommodated a laminated OS map and two hand pockets with double ended zippers. The latter can be used above a hip belt or harness, or below a waist belt.
The Claw2 has four pockets: two Napoleon pockets like the Claw1 and two high hand pockets, positioned above a sit harness or waist belt.
Each of the FurTech jackets has a loop so that keys can be secured and the pocket used freely, without risking losing them.
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Whether you pitch it or move together should depend on the protection you require, but different styles may need different clothing strategies. Climbing long pitches may involve long periods of time belaying and often some sort of overshell insulated jacket will be very useful. It is more efficient to put it on sooner rather than later when you are already beginning to feel cold. Moving together is obviously very different, with a consistant heat output and no stops.
On easier climbs and scrambles I often find myself short pitching and moving together. This reduces the amount of time spent on belay and means there's less time to get cold, so donning an Overshell isn't necessary. However, it may be useful to carry one in case short stops become longer ones. The leader may be best positioned to make that judgement call and shout down his advice. A shortish rope also makes communication so much easier.
(The photo doesn't show the shivering, as short pitching deteriorated into a long cold wait behind other teams on Dorsal Arete. The ropes were buried in snow by the time we move off.)
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Most of the time I just let the sleeves dangle, but you can tuck them inside the jacket or under your sack straps. Or use the cuff fastening to attach the sleeves together and put them over your head to rest on your sack behind your neck.
Exposing the whole arm and arm pit provides massive venting and allows you to keep your jacket on in changeable conditions.
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I wear the belt most days on various trousers and have never had a problem with the belt working loose. However, we have heard that some people have experienced this problem. It may depend on the exact fit but please check to make sure the buckle is threaded correctly. If there is still a problem the simplest solution is to tuck the tail behind the belt. Alternatively you can lock it off by passing the tail back through a slot on the buckle as shown in the photo below.
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Many people will wear gaiters over the top, but in heavy rain there is a risk that water will run down between the two. In this case it is advisable to wear gaiters under your trousers.
I find that lightweight mini-gaiters, worn beneath FurTech trousers keep snow and bits out of my boots. I've even worn them in deep snow without any problems as they provide sufficient overlap between trousers and gaiter. Because they are protected by the trousers I find they breathe adequately and that some condensation isn't a problem, outside of my socks. They are very light and suitable for summer too.
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These trousers can be worn on a bike, but most people will prefer more specialist leg wear with less insulation, unless it is very cold.
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It's not a matter of time. The FurTech system doesn't work by slowly soaking up water and it doesn't require movement or heat to keep you dry.
That said, everywaterproof system has its limits. But in the vast majority of situations FurTech will keep you drier than a conventional waterproof breathable membrane garment because of the way it pushes condensation away.
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Most fit people will be able to generate bursts of speed sufficient to cause a good sweat, even in cold conditions. I don't wear FurTech when I go fell running. However, for long days in the hills an alpine plod can be much more effective. It's often the case of the tortoise and the hare.
Utilising the vents as soon as you start to feel warm and closing them in colder conditions on the tops, during stops or when conditions worsen, means that most people will be able to wear FurTech most of the day, reducing the need to stop and change layers. Wearing our trousers next to your skin and a FurTech jacket over a baselayer means that the massive vents are very effective at cooling.
Of course, if it's warm and not raining then there's no need to wear the jacket. (It's usually cooler when it rains).
In the summer I often use my FurTech jacket when wearing shorts. Bare legs dry very quickly.
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System Dual Protection from Keela was developed because they realised that condensation occurs on the inside of all single layer waterproofs. They say "Scientific research shows that ALL single layer waterproof and breathable fabrics stop working after one hour of use in cold and wet conditions. The real weather when waterproofs are required to work." I'd agree, though how long it takes for condensation to form is dependent on temperature (of the fabric), pressure and humidity (inside the garment and the ambient air). Conventional breathability is of course very useful when conditions aren't saturated.
System Dual Protection uses two waterproof breathable fabrics, one inside the other. This acts a bit like double glazing or a cavity wall to keep the inside layer warm and above the dew point. Movement of the garment helps to circulate air between the two layers. Unfortunately having two conventional waterproof fabrics reduces breathability: if they both had breathabilities of 80% the total would be 80% times 80% = 64%. Another problem is that water tends to stick hydrophilic fabrics together, compromising the air gap.
Our furry FurTech lining maintains the air gap and helps to keep the inside warm. It pushes liquid condensation outwards where a damp outer fabric can transmit it to the outside and the wind can assist drying. The Keela system uses a siliconised interliner to separate their fabrics on the shoulders, but the two thin fabrics can touch elsewhere, reducing their capacity to cope with condensation.
Like most waterproofs, the membranes in the Keela system may be punctured and the seam tape is prone to delamination, however, this is mitigated by having two layers. The dual hydrophilic membranes should only be re-proofed with a spray applied to the outside so as not to contaminate them. In contrast, FurTech is more easily repaired and re-proofed.
Overall the FurTech system has better breathability, is softer, quieter, lighter, more durable and easily repaired. System Dual Protection has a higher hydrostatic head.
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Unfortunately thin membrane hardshells are likely to stop breathing and suffer from condensation, even in moderate conditions. FurTech doesn't suffer from these problems and is guaranteed to outperform membrane hardshells.
In hot/wet conditions membrane hardshells may keep you cooler but as the humidity builds you will often still get wet. FurTech has integral insulation but better breathability and condensation control allowing it to be used in a surprisingly wide range of conditions. But don't take my word for it, click here for customers testimonials and reviews.
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I am sceptical of any manufacturer who claims that their waterproofs always keep you dry... I've tried many of them and always found conditions (sometimes quite benign ones) when they fail. In my experience FurTech copes with 99% of wet weather in Britain and this is backed up by the independent rain room tests carried out at Leeds University (the same standard as Paramo use) and many independent field tests.
"So what about the other 1% of the time?" I hear you ask.
The key to surviving the worst storms is staying warm enough even if you are a bit damp, which is why the fabrics are designed to resist water chill. It is also why I would recommend you consider using an OverShell and/or Shelter on winter hills and mountains.
Every outdoor course in the country will advise that you carry spare insulation and a survival bag (or modern equivalent) for trips into the hills.
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The integral insulation resists wind compression and will maintain more than half its thickness in winds exceeding 286 miles per hour! The outer fabrics are windproof to about 200 miles per hour (converting from standard hydrostatic tests) and breathability is enhanced with increasing wind speed. Reducing humidity, even a little, increases thermal resistance and keeps you warmer.
(The picture shows a prototype garment and the hood has since been improved to prevent the peak from lifting.)
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The following are dimensions taken from production jackets.
Claw1 Dimensions (cm)
|
Small |
Medium |
Large |
XLarge | |
|
Front Length |
74 |
74 |
77 |
77 |
|
Back Length |
76 |
76 |
79 |
79 |
|
Chest Circumference |
108 |
114 |
120 |
126 |
|
Hem Circumference |
108 |
114 |
120 |
126 |
|
Shoulder/Arm Circumference |
56 |
60 |
64 |
68 |
|
Arm Length |
60 |
62 |
64 |
66 |
|
Cuff Circumference |
30 |
31 |
32 |
33 |
The Claw 2 is approximately 4cm longer in the front and 8cm longer in the back. The chest, arms and shoulder dimensions are similar and the hem is slightly narrower.
Talon Dimensions (cm)
|
Small |
Medium |
Large |
XLarge | |
|
Front Length |
66 |
66 |
69 |
69 |
|
Back Length |
72 |
72 |
75 |
75 |
|
Chest Circumference |
108 |
114 |
120 |
126 |
|
Hem Circumference |
108 |
114 |
120 |
126 |
|
Shoulder/Arm Circumference |
56 |
60 |
64 |
68 |
|
Arm Length |
60 |
62 |
64 |
66 |
|
Cuff Circumference |
30 |
31 |
32 |
33 |
Please note that these are the actual garment dimensions. You should allow room for movement and layering and we recommend that a Small is appropriate for chest sizes up to 34", Medium up to 37", Large up to 40" and Extra Large up to 43".
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Our fabrics offer about 2.5Togs of insulation or about 1.6Clo. This means that they are 1.6 times as warm as the clothing required to keep a resting person comfortable at room temperature (21'C). It is less than most fleece and hardshell combinations. The thermal protection FurTech offers is enhanced because they resist wind and water chill. They can also be worn in surprisingly mild conditions with the vents open or arms out.
I'd recommend wearing FurTech over base layers that are appropriate for the conditions to allow optimum venting. Hats, neck warmers and gloves may be used to regulate your temperature.
FurTech jackets offer an excellent warmth to weight ratio compared to thin hardshells which offer virtually zero insulation (based on measurements carried out on Gore-Tex and FurTech by the University of Manchester).
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Wick Zips aren't something radically new. They are strong coil zips constructed with the tape on the outside to protect the plastic teeth. The reason we call them wick zips is that the tape helps to suck water out of the pockets and internal front flap. They work because the pockets are made from hydrophobic fabric and water prefers to stick to the zip, evaporating off the outside in the wind. This makes the pockets far more water resistant than they first appear.
However, we don't guarantee that the pockets are 100% waterproof and sensitive items should use additional protection - a small plastic bag works well.
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The hood rolls into the collar using three press studs to secure it (2 studs on the Claw2). This simple system means that it can be deployed easily with the minimum of hassle.
Use the central press stud to fold the outer fabric over the hood drawcord so that it doesn't irritate the neck when the hood is rolled inside. The two other press studs secure the hood in the collar. If you want to tuck the hood away while you are wearing the jacket just stuff it down inside. The soft materials are comfortable against the neck and the studs can be used when you next take the jacket off.
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Use the top rear drawcord to cinch the hood around the head. The lower drawcord can be used to tighten the collar beneath the chin if you prefer - useful when the hood is rolled inside, to keep heat in and rain out. This design keeps the drawcords well away so that they can't whip your eyes. Neither does it use velcro near the face where your breath is likely to freeze and clog the loops, stopping it from sealing.
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There are two ways of fastening the elastic:
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In wild weather conditions, when snow or rain tries to force its way into every aperture, the Snow Seal Hem comes into its own. Fasten the elastic between your legs to form a good seal that simultaneously holds the jacket down and prevents it flapping. This also keeps the front zip pressed against the internal flap improving the seal against wind blasting rain. Even when hanging from your arms the hem of the jacket is held below the waist of your waterproof trousers and the close fitting front makes seeing your feet that much easier in awkward climbing situations.
The snow seal hem is also very useful in deep powder and is probably the lightest "powder skirt" on the market.
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Both the inner and outer fabrics are made from polyester. This is less susceptible to ultra violet degradation than polyamide (nylon) so the garments will last much longer. The transparent peak also includes a UV stabiliser to prevent yellowing.
The outer fabric is a woven microfiber and provides wind resistance in the same way as a birds flight feathers.
The inner fabric is knitted and brushed with the furry surface facing away from the wearer. The special structure of this polyester fur causes water to be pushed outwards.
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There are advantages and disadvantages of using a windproof and a FurTech jacket.
In warm conditions, when the wind is whipping across summit ridges a windproof can be very comfortable because it adds little insulation yet protects from wind chill. I also use them for running and mountain biking when I'm generating lots of heat, sometimes in gnarly, wet conditions. They can also offer sun protection on glaring glaciers and are midge proof.
If you intend using a windproof in the rain be prepared to get wet. A synthetic or wool baselayer dries quickly and maintains some insulation. A T-shirt can leave the forearms feeling chilled as a thin WindShell offers poor protection when wet.
Adding a FurTech jacket over the top reinforces the windproof for cooler and wetter weather. FurTech jackets allow a wet windproof (or other layer) to dry off, even in proper wet weather, unlike membrane garments. However, it may be better to just wear the FurTech layer for most conditions:
In short, a windproof adds versatility to your higher temperature clothing system, for little cost or weight.
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Four key reasons that outdoor clothing should be adaptable:
What aids temperature flexibility:
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I've never been particularly bothered about a hood flapping behind me, but some people apparently are. However, I do find that the collar provides better protection for the neck and chin when the hood is rolled away. In warm weather I leave the hood out.
To secure the hood there are three plastic press studs. If you are wearing the jacket and want to tidy away the hood, just roll it and stuff it down inside the collar, then fasten the studs when you next take the jacket off.
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These comments are in light of extensive fell running experience using windproof and waterproof fabrics. My preference is generally for a windproof plus blizzard vest, but this is usually against race rules.
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Softshells offer wind resistance, breathability and usually a little warmth. Hardshells offer water and wind resistance to the detriment of breathability. When they are layered together the total breathability of your clothing system is far less than using a hardshell over a fleece.
Also, because the Softshell is likely to be wet by the time you have managed to put your Hardshell on, you introduce cold water inside the waterproof membrane. This further increases humidity inside your clothing and can lead to lower breathability levels in the hardshell... or even complete failure to breathe. This link discusses the science in more detail.
FurTech garments are more breathable than membrane softshells or hardshells and don't suffer these added breathability problems.
Other Softshells may use more breathable fabrics, with less wind resistance, which is why FurTech garments also feature effective zipped vents (which can also be used in the rain). This provides our garments with extraordinary temperature flexability.
Avoiding changing layers can also save time and pockets aren't buried beneath other layers... or items aren't packed back in your sack inside a hardshell pocket... reducing the faff factor.
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I recommend that you first choose a quick drying baselayer or combination of thin layers that are appropriate for the climate. Worn beneath the FurTech jacket these should be enough to keep you warm during light exercise. Choose base layers that are wind permeable so that the vents in the jacket work effectively. They will keep you cool when you work hard.
Use a hat and hood to help fine tune your temperature.
When you stop, the best way to add insulation is to use an OverShell. These synthetic duvet jackets don't absorb much water and can be worn over a FurTech jacket, even in the rain. I wrap mine around my flask so that it comes out pre-heated and I force myself to put it away when I set off again, even though I may feel cold for a few minutes until the exercise warms me up. In that way I don't have to stop and start and it saves on the faff factor.
Using an OverShell instead of fleece insulation, means that you don't have to remove your FurTech jacket, exposing yourself to the elements and losing heat.
When it's wet, a shelter (clan tent or bothy bag) works very well for tea breaks. Using a foam mat, seat yourself out of the gale to reduce wind chill (and fabric rattle, which can be extraordinarily loud!). The ShellTA can be used in this way. Or can be worn as an extra emergency outer layer.
In emergencies, Blizzard Reflexcell can add significantly more insulation for very little weight. It works when wet and is waterproof. It is also crucial to utilise what is around: You may be able to dig a snow hole or add insulation with leaves and bracken. You can sometimes use your sack to add protection to your feet and legs. Don't forget that shivering burns massive amounts of energy so make sure you carry spare food.
As a rule of thumb it is worth remembering that the insulation required when asleep may be 16 times that needed when working at your maximum output!
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Light and Fast comes from fell running and adventure racing where every gramme counts. In these sports a fairly constant level of exertion means that garment changes are often unnecessary... and you don't expect to be comfortable!
In mountaineering and hill walking light and fast still holds true, but the 'faff factor' comes into play. Changing layers to stay comfortable and dry can slow up progress significantly, especially if different members of your team are changing at different times. It's complicated further when you're festooned with sack, slings, body coils and harness.
The vents on FurTech garments mean that they can often be worn all day come 'hail, rain or shine', significantly reducing the 'faff factor' and increasing speed across the ground.
Of course, light doesn't just mean light. It infers weight in comparison to warmth, durability and functionality. Does that ultralightweight shell have a helmet compatible hood? Does it have insulation? Can you vent? Will it seal out spin drift? Will the sleeves go over your gloves? Try comparing FurTech weights with a shell jacket and hooded fleece with pit zips.
FurTech garments are significantly lighter than other types of layering system because they don't have membranes, taped seams and extra zips and trim. And they come with a whole host of other benefits... the Sight'n'Sound Hood for instance.
FurTech also offers a better warmth to weight ratio than our closest competitor due to a thicker fur lining. However, the Rain Vents allow more comfortable summer use! If it's not raining and you are warm enough you don't need to wear it.
That said, I wouldn't go fell running in a current FurTech jacket (we may be introducing something for Adventure Racers in the future).
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Please see the FurTech used for...? part of our site.
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Please see the Care & Maintenance section.
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There are many types of soft shells:
Usually they have a few distinctive features:
FurTech garments are windproof and more breathable than other waterproofs. They have a lower resistance to water pressure than most hardshells but keep you drier in prolonged wet weather because they get rid of condensation.
They are also more breathable than membrane softshells.
FurTech garments can be considered a type of Softshell... but they keep you drier than a hard shell (conventional waterproof breathable). This means that you don't need to carry both types, saving you weight and money.
Here's an interesting comparison of waterproof breathable fabrics demonstrating breathability. FurTech fabrics are similar to paramo. http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/news/article/mps/UAN/3921/v/2/sp/
Many thanks to Jon at OutdoorsMagic.
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I remember years ago, slogging up Grisedale Pike in warm, drizzly conditions wearing my waterproof membrane over a synthetic base layer. It was pouring down, cold and blustery at the top and I was soon chilled. Pressing on to try and keep warm I was hoping for a break in the weather in order to add some insulation. During a slight lull I quickly stripped my waterproof off and added a fleece. Nevertheless it got soaked and my base layer was saturated. Result: cold, wet and miserable.
Using FurTech in similar conditions I’m a little warm after 15 minutes of hard walking but stay comfortable and protected as conditions worsen with altitude.
Traditionally 3 layers are recommended: the wicking base layer, mid layer fleece and waterproof breathable shell. The advantages of this modular system are that you can wear different thicknesses of fleece and base layers, with or without the shell, and the waterproof can be worn with the base layer when it's warm.
The disadvantages of this system are:
FurTech is a different type of layering system because thin, water resistant insulation is combined with a wind and water resistant outer, in a single garment. This is then worn over base layers chosen for the climate. (If you feel the cold they can also be worn over a fleece but are not cut to fit over a thick duvet jacket.)
This has the advantage that:
The disadvantages are:
Here's an interesting comparison of waterproof breathable fabrics. Ours are similar to Paramo. http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/news/article/mps/UAN/3921/v/2/sp/
Many thanks to Jon at OutdoorsMagic.
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FurTech uses a similar system to Paramo's Nikwax Biological Analogy. Anyone who has used this sort of system will probably testify to the importance of good ventilation. FurTech uses significantly bigger vents that can even be used in the rain, so you stay comfortable when working hard (please see this testimonial). Here's a list of the differences:

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